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| Fruit tree pruning |
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Some fruit trees are best pruned in summer to prevent disease, others may need an additional trim to keep them under control and promote flower-bud formation
It may be necessary to prune Apple & Pear trees twice during the year to maintain the desired shape, and promote strong growth.
Formally trained fruit trees are pruned during summer to restrict growth and encourage fruit-bud formation, whereas winter pruning will promote strong growth.
Summer pruning allows light and air to penetrate the tree, which in turn helps the fruit buds to develop.
If you are growing ‘minarette’ varieties then most of the pruning is done in the summer, mid September (in the North) in the case of Apples, and week or so earlier for Pears.
The main stem leader must not be pruned in Summer, do not prune too early as this will encourage secondary growth.
In the event that secondary growth does occur cut it back in September.
The only winter pruning required with a ‘minarette’ is the removal of up to a third of the past summers growth.
Winter pruning encourages side shoots to develop which in turn will form fruiting spurs.
The shoots requiring pruning will have woody bases with a basal cluster of leaves then light green leaves from the young shoots.
New shoots in excess of 200mm (8") long growing from the main stem should be cut back to about three leaves above the cluster.
Shoots less than 200mm (8") long should not be pruned.
Note; Unpruned shoots should be cut to one bud in spring.
Any shoots growing from existing side shoots should be cut back to one leaf or 25mm (1") from the basal cluster.
Note; The basal cluster is recognised as a small cluster of 2-4 leaves closely spaced at the base of the shoot.
Stone fruits (apricots, cherries, peaches & plums) are also summer pruned as they are vulnerable to infection by silver leaf disease if pruned in winter.
Established trees; Remove dead or unhealthy growth, along with upright, over-vigorous shoots, and thin out less-productive wood to ease congestion.
Fans: Shorten any non-essential new shoots to six leaves before fruiting, and then after fruiting to three leaves.
Pyramids: Shorten new shoots on main stems to 200mm (8”) and any strong side shoots to 150mm (6”), pruning to just above a downward-facing bud.
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