Shallots
Shallots are like onion sets in that they are grown from small bulbs.
However, instead of getting one large bulb as you would from an onion sett, shallots can give you 6-12 small bulbs.
They have a milder flavour than larger onions, and are easier to grow.
Some cultivars can be grown from seed.
Week 4; Sow seed in a tray of evenly firmed soil-less seed compost.
Broadcast the seed thinly, or singly, over the compost, and cover 5mm (3/16”) deep, with similar compost, water, then cover the tray with a sheet of glass and paper.
Germinate at a minimum temperature of 16°C (60°F)
As soon as they have germinated, normally in about five to six days, take covers off, and allow plenty light to the seedlings.
Grow on in Greenhouse at this temperature, ventilate as much as possible (depending upon the weather) giving maximum light at all times.
Week 7; As soon as they reach the crook stage, and the second leaf appears, prick out seedlings into 70mm (3”) pots of any proprietary soil-less potting compost.
Grow on, giving them plenty of light, but being careful not to force them with too much heat, and too much water, 8°-10°C (45°-50°F) will do.
Watering depends so much upon the weather, so always allow them to dry out between each watering.
It is advisable to spray seedlings, from the second leaf stage with a fungicide at regular intervals to deter ‘damping off’
Week 13; Gradually harden off seedlings prior to planting out.
Week 14; Select a site that has not been freshly manured in an open sunny position, where the soil is firm, fertile and well drained, and has a pH of 6.5.
Work in a light dressing of a general fertiliser before planting.
Push the bulbs/setts into the ground 200mm (8") apart, in rows 400mm (16") apart leaving only the tips showing.
If the ground is hard, make a drill and place the bulbs into it, pulling the soil back over.
Keep your eye on the bulbs in the early stages, birds will pull them up.
If this happens, replant them immediately.
Use netting to protect them if birds are a real problem.
Alternatively; If ground conditions are such that makes planting out impossible, pot the bulbs up into 75mm (3") pots and grow on in a cold frame until such times as it is possible to plant outdoors.
This method can also be used if you want off to an earlier start.
Week 18>; Weed carefully and often, but take care not to disturb, damage or bury the bulbs.
Pull the soil carefully away from the clumps to aid ripening.
Week 20; Plant out seed sown plants 200mm (8") apart, in rows 400mm (16")
Week 22>; Applying a high potash feed at this time can assist size and ripening
Circa Week 27; As the leaves turn yellow, lift the bulbs, separate them, and leave them out to dry in the sun for a few days.
To help them dry out, spread them on netting fixed to stakes or dry them off under a well ventilated frame.
Cover them if it rains.
Remove loose skins and remains of foliage to reduce the risk of fungal infections in storage.
Take care not to bruise the bulbs and use any damaged specimens immediately.
Week 28; > Place bulbs in trays, net bags or string them up, and store in a dry, airy, frost free place.
Save some bulbs for planting the following year, ensuring that these are completely sound and disease free.
|