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| Narcissus | Common name; Daffodil |
Classification System;
Division 1;Trumpet Daffodils -The trumpet or corona is as long or longer than the perianth segments.
Division 2; Large Cup - The cup or corona is less than the length of the perianth but more than a third.
Division 3; Small Cup - The cup or corona is less than a third of the perianth.
Division 4; Double Daffodils - This is for double flowers and also includes flowers that are doubled and have more than one bloom to the stem.
Division 5; Hybrid Daffodils - Have n.triandrus characteristics.
Division 6; Hybrid Daffodils - Have n.cyclamineus characteristics.
Division 7; Hybrid Daffodils - Have n.jonquilla characteristics.
Division 8; Hybrid Daffodils- The tazetta group.
Division 9; Hybrid Daffodils - Have n.poeticus characteristics.
Division 10; This for all Species and wild forms.
Division 11; Is for Daffodils with the cup or corona that is naturally split or separated usually for more than a half of its length.
(Not to be confused with varieties with deeply pronounced frills).
Division 11a; Collar Daffodils - Have the corona segments opposite the perianth segments; with the corona segments usually in two whorls of three.
Division 12; Papillon Daffodils - The corona segments alternate to the perianth segments; the corona segments usually in a single whorl of six.
Daffodil Colour & Timing System
To assist in the identification of colours and flowering times, the normal system is to use letters. e.g.
W White Y Yellow G Green R Red P Pink O Orange (E) Early season (EM) Early mid season (M) Mid season (LM) Late mid season (L) Late season (W) Winter Flowering Example;
2W-GYO (EM) defines the variety as an early mid season Div.2
It has a (W) white perianth (petals) and the corona (cup) has a (G) green centre, (Y) yellow middle zone and an (O) orange rim.
Cultural Notes ;
Pests & Diseases;
Attacks by the large narcissus bulb fly and narcissus eelworm can be fatal
Other less common problems include slugs, basal rot, virus and fungal infection.
Pot/Indoor culture;
Week 38; Pot the bulbs up as soon as they are available. (August/September)
To extend the flowering season, the pot/s can be filled in layers of different flowering season varieties.
e.g. bottom layer with a late variety, second layer with a mid season variety, and the top layer with an early variety.
Place sufficient bulbs in each layer to allow at least 25mm (1") between the bulbs, (do not let them touch each other).
Ensure the final layer will have at least 75mm (3") of compost cover.
The compost can be any of the prepared composts that are available today.
After potting, to develop the root system, it is essential that the bulbs are kept cool and moist,
Do this by plunging the pots outside and covering them with a three or four of inches of peat or similar substance.
If outdoor space is not available, store the bowls in a cool, dark well-ventilated cellar or cupboard at a temperature of 4°-8°C(40°-45°F) maximum, keep the soil or fibre moist by watering as required.
A simple rule is to plant early, keep cold, and bring inside to a cool room or conservatory (max 16°C-60°F) when the flower buds are about 75-100mm (3"-6") high.
Bulbs that are subjected to premature indoor warmth, growth will be weak and often the flower will strangle in the neck of the bulb, or the bulb could be severely checked and die.
After flowering, keep well watered and give an occasional feed for about six to eight weeks, then plant outside in the usual way.
Outdoor Culture;
For open ground culture, most garden soils will grow fine daffodils, but the ground should be deeply cultivated and free draining, and ideally sheltered from strong winds.
Should manure or compost be necessary this should be well rotted and worked into the soil a good spade's depth below the surface.
Bulbs should never be in actual contact with manures as this can encourage disease, and could be the cause of rotting.
Circa week 40; plant at one-and-a-half times their own depth, slightly deeper in light soils.
Put another way plant out at least 100mm (4") deep and 150mm (6") apart.
The addition of grit to the growing medium can help the general drainage of the area.
They can then be left undisturbed for several years until lifting and dividing is necessary.
For garden display,setting them in groups/clumps of three -five bulbs in various parts of the border rather than in drifts can look effective.
A little feeding at flowering time, circa week 17, will benefit the bulbs and assist in producing next year's display.
Apply a 70-80gms (3oz) dressing of general fertiliser per sq.m.
Dead head regularly to allow the plant/s to place their energy into the bulbs rather than their seed heads.
You should not remove the leaves until they are beginning to turn yellow, or for at least eight weeks after flowering, circa week 20-22.
The bulbs do not need lifting each year.
However if you require to move them to re-arrange the garden layout do this when the leaves have died back.
If you find that you can't wait this long at least wait untill the top 25mm (1") of the leaves have yellowed and died back.
Check bulbs periodically between now and planting out time, discarding all diseased or damaged bulbs.
Miniature Daffodils;
Miniature daffodils are particularly suitable for growing in a rockery or outdoor containers & planters.
Plant 50mm(2") deep 75mm(3") apart in a sheltered spot to encourage early flowering.
Planting in groups of three to five bulbs can look very effective.
Note; They do not always flower perfectly the first year, this time being taken in establishing themselves in their new surroundings.
Once established they are best left undisturbed for a few years.
Naturalising;
Choose a well drained site where the foliage can be left for four to six weeks after flowers have faded.
Grass should not be cut during this period, so an unkempt appearance will need to be tolerated.
To achieve a natural 'random' pattern when planting, mark out an area and drop bulbs within it, planting them with a trowel where they land, to twice their own depth.
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