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Before choosing a hedge there are a number of things to be considered particularly in the light of new legislation. e.g the height required.
Then consider if the hedge is for privacy, security or aesthetics, i.e. flowering, evergreen.
Once this has been established one must take in to account if your preferences are practical, e.g. quality / type of soil, and exposure.
Use salt-tolerant species in coastal areas.
Probably the best way to answer these questions is to study hedges in your locality and see what grows best.
Preparation; Dig along the line of the new hedge to at least a spade depth i.e. approx. 300mm (12”) deep and 600-900mm (2’-3’) wide, and incorporate copious amounts of organic matter.
If the area has a tendency to get very wet, improve the soil by adding horticultural grit.
If water-logging is a problem, lay a suitable land drain.
Conversely; in dry areas, consider installing a trickle irrigation system.
Planting; Autumn to early winter is the ideal time to plant out a hedge.
Most hedging plants are supplied bare-rooted, although some might come as container plants.
These are best planted while they are dormant, but avoid planting in cold, wet weather or when ground is frozen.
If you are unable to plant immediately after delivery, ensure the roots are kept moist and free of frost.
For longer-term storage, heel them in at the same level at which they were grown in the nursery, with a view to transplanting them when conditions improve.
When planting; trim back any damaged roots to healthy growth.
Ensure the planting hole is of sufficient width to allow the roots to be fully spread out.
The planting depth should be as it was on the nursery, this can be seen by the soil mark on the stem.
Planting distances can vary and are generally dependant upon the cultivar being planted, and the eventual thickness of the hedge.
Plant single row hedges approx. 300-600mm (24”-36”) apart.
For thicker hedges, plant a staggered double row at the same centers as above, with 500-600mm (18”-24”) between rows.
Work soil between the roots with your hands, firm plants in with your feet, then water and mulch.
n.b. It does not follow that larger specimens are best, smaller plants tend to establish better and their rate of growth usually outperforms larger specimens.
Aftercare; Ensure plants are well-watered for the next two growing seasons.
Top-dress annually with a general purpose fertilizer.
Keep the area weed free, and re-apply mulch as required.
In exposed areas, erect a windbreak on the windward side, until plants are established.
If rabbits and deer are a problem, protect the young plants with tree guards.
Leyland cypress hedges
Despite much bad press, leylandii hedges make excellent and quick-growing hedges.
The bad press has generally been brought about by people neglecting the hedge and allowing it to get out of control.
Had they been regularly trimmed this problem would most likely not have occurred.
Leyland cypress need regular pruning, clipping may be required three times a year from April onwards.
To keep the hedge ‘evergreen’ aim to keep the hedge wedge shape or ‘A’ shaped i.e. flat narrow top with a wide base.
If the shape is the converse of this it is likely to become bare at the base.
Renovating overgrown hedges is difficult, i.e. they cannot be greatly reduced in size when too large.
New growth will not sprout from old wood below the outer green foliage, which means all pruning must be done to the younger shoots.
Hedges may respond to shortening in stages, e.g. remove up to one-third off the height, in April.
Removing too much can result in a bare, flat-topped hedge, or even death of individual plants.
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