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| Cuttings - Basic Information |
Cuttings are the simplest method of propagating most shrubs and herbaceous perennials.
Most likely they will take the form of Hardwood, Semi-hardwood and Softwood cuttings.
Cuttings taken in summer are generally rooted in a cold greenhouse or cold frame.
Winter taken cuttings will require some form of heat e.g. a propagator (these can be purpose made or home made).
Once cuttings are severed from the plant they build up auxins at their base, it is this plant hormone that promotes the formation of roots.
Dipping the cuttings in fresh rooting powder can increase the amount of auxins supplied.
In interest of good hygene, when using hormone powder/gel, tip out a small amount of rooting hormone into a small container, such as an old lid or plant pot saucer, and dip the base of each cutting in this.
Throw any excess away after use to avoid contamination.
This method eliminates the risk of contaminating the remaining contents of the container, thus avoiding the possibility of passing on viruses and/or other diseases onto future cuttings.
nb . Most rooting powders / gels have a short shelf life and should be replaced annually.
General requirements.
To root cutting you need the following conditions;
a) Adequate light,
Cuttings should not be subjected to too much sunlight.
If unavoidable provide some shading to keep the leaves cool, but not so much that it greatly reduces photosynthesis.
b) Warmth,
Aim to provide a temperature of 15°-25°C (60°-75°F) but no higher, as above this root production can be suppressed.
The temperature around the foliage should be cooler than the compost.
c) Moisture.
Root formation requires the cells to grow and divide therefore the rooting medium should be sterile, well-drained and moist yet able to hold moisture and allow the passage of air through it.
If cuttings wilt, this generally means that little photosynthesis is taking place, so transfer cuttings to an area with higher humidity and better light levels.
Commercial growers use mister systems to prevent their cuttings drying out, the amateur can use a pump or hand spray and get reasonable results.
Be careful with watering as this can be a major cause of failure.
There should be adequate water until rooting has taken place if the container is well watered when the cuttings are first inserted.
Failing this, spray the cuttings with a pump spray.
A useful tip is to mix a fungicide and weak foliar feed to the spraying mixture this will assist in preventing “damping off” and offer the cutting some sustenance until it has rooted.
Note; high humidity levels can also cause fungal rots so judicious ventilation will be required.
d) Other factors;
The compost should never be allowed to get too wet
Avoid small cuttings these tend to exhaust their food reserves before they have rooted.
To reduce the risk of cuttings 'damping off' prior to rooting, dip the cutting in a fungicide solution, mixed to the manufactures recommendation.
To maintain humidity and provide an even temperature, cover the pot or tray with a polythene bag supported on wire or sticks and sealed with an elastic band.
Keep cuttings out of direct sunlight to avoid scorching and overheating.
Once cuttings show signs of growth, gradually increase ventilation, first by puncturing the polythene and then removing the elastic band and finally the whole bag week or so later.
Once cuttings are well-rooted (look for roots starting to come through the bottom of the container), move them into individual pots of multi-purpose compost a soon as possible.
The exception is with cuttings rooted in the autumn which should be left until March before potting on
Transplanting cuttings in the dormant season can kill them.
Grow plants on in progressively larger pots until they are enough to plant out.
Compost;
Use a seed and / or cutting compost in preference to multi-purpose compost as the high levels of nutrients in the latter can inhibit the rooting.
Listed below are some alternative recipes;
1) Equal parts (by volume) Peat and river sand.
2) 3 parts (by volume) compost, 1 part Vermiculite, 1 part Perlite, and 1 part silver sand.
3) 2 parts (by volume) compost, plus one part silver sand. (see example below)
Example 3;
Sifted mp Compost 2 parts Compost one part Sand Final mixture
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