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Containers for winter interest
 
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Compost

Deadheading

Fertiliser

Plants

Watering

Outdoor containers

Outdoor containers should be prepared before the end of the growing season, to allow the plants to establish themselves before the winter weather conditions arrive.

September onwards (Week 35) is a good time to begin.

Containers come in a variety of materials, some suited better to winter weather than others.

For example, wooden containers are better than plastic or fibreglass types as they offer better protection to the root systems.

Terracotta or ceramic containers should be 'frost proof’ otherwise they may succumb to freezing winter temperatures.

If you decide to use wooden containers, then it is beneficial to fit a plastic liner inside to prevent the wood from rotting.

When filling the pot with compost firstly place 50mm (2”) of crocks, gravel, or broken up polystyrene over drainage holes.

Keep the base of the pot off the ground by standing it on purpose made feet or bricks.

This allows surplus water to drain off and prevents the pot sitting in pools of water. 

One should consider filling the pot with loam/soil based compost rather than soil-less and this will give more stability.

This may not always be practical if lime-free compost is required, in this case one would use ericaceous compost.

The addition of grit to the compost will aid drainage.

Mix in a controlled slow-release fertiliser to sustain the train during the growing season

Leave a gap of 25-50mm (2”-3”) between the top of the compost and the rim of the container to allow for watering. 

Planting; There is a wide range of plants that can be used for winter containers.

Having said that; when planting your pots there are a few things to keep in mind; 

Flowers are colourful but are often damaged by heavy frost / snow.

Small evergreen or variegated shrubs can be useful subjects.

Similarly various spring bulbs.

Position larger plants towards the back of the container.

Plants grow more slowly in winter so you can place them closer together.

Dead­head flowering subjects to lengthen the flowering period

Aftercare;

Winter containers are low maintenance with only occasional watering required.

Feeding is unnecessary.

In really cold snaps, wrap containers in bubble plastic.

Raise pots from the ground to assist drainage, this also helps prevent wooden containers rotting at the base.

Indoor containers;

Choose bulbs such as hyacinths, Narcissus 'Paper White' and Hippeastrum (amaryllis) to flower indoors in time for Christmas.

When purchasing the bulbs ensure that they are firm and healthy before buying, and avoid any that have started growing.

Week 40-42; Space Hyacinth and/or Hippeastrum bulbs evenly on a layer of moist bulb fibre in a bulb bowl or pot to flower for Christmas.

Some hyacinths are specially pre­pared for earlier flowering and should be planted in Weeks 35-40.

Fill around with fibre to about 10mm (½”) from the pot rim, with the bulb tops just showing.

Narcissus for flowering in January / February need to be planted to a depth of two to three times the bulb size.

Place the bulbs in cool, dark conditions, and check them regularly and make sure they are kept just moist.

Leave them until the shoots are 40-50mm (2”) high, this generally takes 8-10 weeks, depending on species / variety.

At this stage, bring the bulbs into a warm, light room (but not direct light) until flowering ends.

Premature removal from the cool, dark conditions, the fibre being kept too wet or too dry, and the bulbs being stored in too warm conditions can affect the flowering cycle.

 

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