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| Clematis | Common name; Old man's beard |
montana
viticelli
hybrid
There are several thousand types of clematis some of which can be seen here.
The majority of varieties are climbing plants that support themselves with twining leaf-stalks, but there are some that can be used for ground cover, plus there are some that are evergreen.
Depending upon variety they can grow to 12m (40ft) high / horizontally.
Clematis types generally fit into three categories;
a) The species that flower from January to May on the previous season's growths. e.g. armandii, and montana.
b) The species that flower on short lateral shoots on the previous season's growths from late May to July.
c) The species that flower in the leaf axils of the current season's stems from July onwards.
Similarly, these can be divided into two groups:
a) The small-flowered species originating from the wild
b) The large-flowered hybrid varieties.
Clematis viticella have finely divided leaves and flower in summer / early autumn on the current year's growth
The bell-shaped flowers can be single (with four to six sepals), semi-double or double, and come in a wide range of colours, e.g. white, red, purple and blue.
They are hardy, surviving to temperatures of -37 °C (-35 ° F) and will grow in most soils providing they are not too dry or too wet.
They flower more profusely in bright sun, but will tolerate dappled / partial shade.
Once established, they need little care and are reasonably drought tolerant.
However with regular watering and high potash feeding they will fare much better.
Mulching over the root system in autumn will set them up nicely for the following year.
Viticella are easily raised from freshly sown seed, but will not necessarily turn out to be the same as the parent plant, to ensure this, take softwood cuttings in early summer,
Layering is another easy method of producing more stock
Week 3; Take hardwood cuttings of Clematis c. Montana by trimming the top of cutting just above a leaf joint, (node) and make lower cut about 100mm (4") below (inter-nodal).
Remove a 25mm (1”) long sliver of rind from the base of the cutting, dip cutting into rooting compound, then insert cuttings into gritty compost, place containers in a cold frame to root.
Week 10; Sow seeds sown in pots/pans or trays of seed compost and keep in warm location for two weeks.
Then place them in a cool location for 4-6 weeks e.g. cold frame at a temperature of around 2°- 4°C (35°-40°F)
Increase temperature slowly until seeds germinate.
Prick out the seedlings singly into 75mm (3") pots potting compost when large enough to handle and grow on in a cold frame until planting out time
Week 13; Take layers and sever layers placed last year (if rooted) and replant where required.
Clematis that are being grown for ground cover can now be propagated by pegging down suitable shoots
Prune Group 2 & 3 as necessary and check group 1 varieties for winter damage and trim.
Plant out new stock if ground and weather conditions allow.
Train new shoots to suit there location.
Week 18; (the following year) Pot up cuttings into 125mm (5") pots, and grow on in a coldframe until planting out time.
Week 27; Take stem cuttings 100-150mm (4"-6") long of half-ripened wood, trim to leave two buds at the base.
Insert in pots/trays containing a mixture of equal parts (by volume) peat and sand and place on a hot bed set to give bottom heat of 18°C (65°F).
When rooted cutting pot into 75mm (3") 3 in. pots of potting compost
Overwinter in a frost-free coldframe or greenhouse
Feed mature plants with an organic fertilizer and mulch with compost to keep soil moist.
Check for mildew and treat as necessary.
Week 38; Prepare planting site by digging in plenty of well-rotted farmyard manure or compost to the soil
Rake in bone meal at a rate of 100gms (4oz) per sq.metre
Week 40; Plant out 1200mm (4ft) apart in any well drained humus rich soil, in a sunny or partially shaded position.
Alternatively; Plant out in early spring, when conditions allow.
Ensure that the planting location offers some shade at ground level.
Check pH prior to planting, Clematis require an alkaline soil, if necessary add garden lime to acid soils .
The planting hole should be dug alongside trellis, or a framework to support the plant as it grows.
Clematis supported on poles, pergolas and trees with a branchless trunk may initially need the main shoots tied to the support.
Those grown through shrubs usually twine without extra help.
If growing through a tree choose only healthy living trees for support, as dead ones may rot and collapse.
If growing against a building ensure that the roots are at least 300mm (12") away from the wall as this area can be prone to druing out.
In all cases plant out so that the base of the plant is level with the soil surface and fix it to a support stake for initial support.
Note; There are some who would advocate that the planting depth should be to plant more deeply than it was in the container, with about 150mm(6") of soil over the root joint.
It is said this this method will reduce the possibilty of clematis wilt, the choice is yours!
Which ever method you use add bone meal and plenty of well-rotted farmyard manure or compost to the soil.
Trim back the shoots to about 300mm(12") to encourage new ones.
Gently water in the plant and then continue to water only as necessary.
Keep the roots shaded with a thick mulch or with low growing plants.
Pale coloured, large flowered hybrids and those with two tone petals like a shady aspect.
Give evergreen and winter flowering species a warm position away from cold winds and draughts.
Some general rules are;
A good start can set them up for life.
They benefit from feeding, especially in their formative years.
Similarly from well rotted manure applied in autumn or early spring.
For a more instant fix to a weak plant, apply liquid seaweed fertiliser or one formulated for tomatoes throughout the growing season.
Once established clematis need minimal care, in fact, a little restraint on the feeding front may temper their vigour.
Regular watering, especially in the first two years, is also required, but, once established, they are reasonably drought tolerant
Plants with pale, or two-tone coloured petals are best planted in a semi shaded position to prevent colour fading.
Evergreens and winter flowering species, should be given a sheltered position avoiding cold easterly winds.
Always provide a support for the clematis at planting time, plastic mesh or trellis will do.
If you are growing up a wall or solid fence, fix the trellis / mesh to horizontal wooden battens spaced about 600mm(2ft) apart.
The young growths may need tying in from time to time.
Those grown through shrubs / trees usually twine without extra help.
Give high potash feeds during the growing season but before flowering, but don't feed when in flower.
Remember they like a lot of water during the growing season - up to a gallon a day in hot weather.
Wall trained plants; it is important to get bushy growth well down at the base during the formative years: cut all shoots back to within 225mm (9") of ground level the second spring after planting.
Thereafter, as soon as the buds start to swell in spring, remove all weak and dead wood and tie in young growths as replacement shoots.
These may be shortened in a restricted space by up to one-third.
Clematis climbing through trees requires little attention apart from occasional thinning out in spring of old and dead growths.
If a tangled 'bird-nest' mass develops, this should be cut back well within the crown of the tree: remove all tangled stems to allow new growth to begin.
Deadheading with removal of a few inches of the stem encourages autumn flowering
In restricted areas; it can be an advantage to train the first shoots horizontally, in the same way as an espalier is trained, about 300mm (12") above ground level.
From these permanent horizontal arms, the flowering stems will grow vertically.
Subsequent pruning, in spring, consists of removing all the previous season's stems back to a pair of plump buds near the bases of the vertical shoots.
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