Note; Loganberries & Tayberries which are the result of crossing blackberries with other rubus species can be treated in the same manner.

Blackberries fruit on two year old canes.

Week 10; If weather conditions allow, give plants a top dressing of 30gms Sulphate of Potash, and 15 gm of Sulphate of Ammonia per square metre (1 oz & ½oz per sq yd)

Week 15; Sever rooted layers and plant out in permanent quarters

Week 22; Ensure that plants get plenty of water and don't dry out between now and the fruit ripening.

Week 26; Spray plants that have yet to flower with a fungicide to deter cane spot disease.

Tie in new shoots as necessary.

Weeks 28-32; Propagate new stock by layering the tips of new shoots.

If shoots are not required, follow the stems back to their point of origin, and dig out the roots.

Note; It's useless just cutting the shoots off because they'll soon grow back stronger than ever,

It is recommended that you wear thick leather gloves.

Week 35; Prune plants after fruiting by cutting out all the canes that have borne fruit.

Week 40; Prepare supports for new plants.

Blackberries can be grown on wires, in the open, against walls, or grown as single plants up supporting posts.

For wire support use 10-12 gauge set at 900, 1200 & 1500mm (3' 4' & 5') above ground level.

Use vine eyes to secure wires to walls.

Allow 3-4 metres (12-15 ft) between plants.

Tie the fruiting shoots to the wires with string or twists ties.

For single posts, use 2.5-3.0 metre long 100 x 100mm (9'-10' x 4"x4") posts.

Insert them so that 2-2.5 metres (6'-7') is above ground level and tie the shoots into the post.

Allow 1.5-2.0 metres (5'-6') between plants/posts.

Training; Select young canes for training to the wires.

Keep one and two year old canes separate for easier harvesting and pruning.

One method is to train the old and new canes to run in opposite directions along the wires.

Loop canes vertically between the horizontal wires to save space but allow space between the canes for light and air penetration.

If space is limited, new canes can be bundled together to one side in their first year, and trained to the other side in their second year to replace the fruited canes once these are pruned out.

With a fan, one half should be old canes and the other half new canes.

It is harder to separate old and new canes when growing canes over a garden arch or wigwam, so consider a thornless cultivar if doing this.

Week 44; Plant out new plants any time from now until March if conditions allow.

Plant out 2.4m (8ft) between plants and 2.4m (8ft) between rows

Cut canes down to 225mm (9") above ground level immediately after planting out.

Grow in sun or partial shade in soil that is well-drained but retains moisture (moisture retention can be improved by incorporating organic matter in the soil), and is either slightly acid or at least free from lime.

Because they do not flower until June, they can be grown in areas that might be subject to late frosts.

Week 51; Complete pruning as soon as possible, but avoid days when shoots are frosted.

Remove all old fruited shoots at ground level or cut back to low-placed strong new shoot.