The Gardeners Almanac

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My Back Garden

Pumpkin


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Week Numbers

Coldframe

Compost

Fertiliser

Frost

Harden Off

Heating

Planting out

Pollination

Seed sowing

Watering

Overview:

Pumpkins should be grown in a sunny spot where the soil is fertile, and well-drained.

The top of a compost heap makes an ideal location providing it gets plenty of sunshine.


Water freely during hot spells and apply a deep mulch of compost, peat or lawn cuttings to preserve moisture.

Avoid watering overhead to prevent mildew.


Varieties may be induced to bear larger fruits by heaping soil over the axils of fruit-bearing laterals, where further roots will then be produced to take up more nutrients and moisture from the soil.


Cultivation

Week 16:

Sow one or two seeds (on edge) approximately 20-25mm (¾"-1") deep in 75mm (3") pot of seed compost, or one seed per cell in cell trays.

Germinate at a temperature of 10°C (50°F)

Germination should take about a week.


Week 17:

Plants hardening off

Seedlings Ready for

Planting Out

Seedlings 7 cm pots

Seedlings Potted On

View of the Germinated seedlings

Germinated Seedlings

Thin out seedlings, leaving the strongest one to grow on,or pot on plugs into 75mm(3") pots.

Gradually harden off the young plants in a cold frame prior to planting out.

If roots appear from the bottom of the pot before the weather is suited to planting out, pot up plants into 125-150mm (5"-6") pots and grow on until planting out time.


Week 22:

Cloches over the plants

Temporary Frost Protection

Bottomless pots on compost heap

Prepared Bottomless Pots

Providing all late frosts* have passed, plant out 900mm (36") apart.

*As an insurance against unexpected late frost cover the plants with cloches.

If necessary, sow more seeds directly into the soil and cover with cloches until they become established.


Circa Week 27 / 30:

Pinch out the growing tips of trailing varieties to encourage the production of laterals which tend to bear most of the female flowers.


Assist pollination by transferring pollen from the male flower to the female flowers.

Female flowers are distinguished by the bulbous ovary behind the petals.

 Male stigma in female ovary

Male stigma in female ovary

Close up of the Ovary

Female Ovary

 Close up of female flower

Female Flower

 Close up of male stigma

Male Stigma

Close up of Male flower

Male Flower

Feed plants weekly with a high potash fertiliser after fruit sets.

To encourage plants to put its energy into producing large fruit,train the growing points to ensure they do not interfere with each other.

Similarly,remove some fruit to leave a maximum two or three fruits per plant.


Before the fruits become too large to move, raise them up onto a piece of wood or a brick to lift them above soil level to protect them from rotting.

As the fruit begin to ripen, remove any leaves that are shading the fruit, this ensures they get maximum light to ripen.


View of fruit turning Orange

Ripening Fruit

View of a few green fruit

Developing Fruit

Plants covered with flowers

Developing Plants

 Tiny fruit formed

Embryo Fruit

 

 

Week 38: onwards

Cut small-fruited varieties as they mature during summer and use immediately.

Fruit stored in frost free area

In Storage

Barrowful of fruit

The Harvest

Ready for Harvesting

Large-fruited types should be left to mature on the plants until late autumn.

When the stem cracks and the skin becomes very tough, the fruit is ready to be picked.


Store fruits for winter use in a cool,(min 10°C / 50°F) frost-free shed.

Pumpkins can be stored for four to six months